Gill Meller is a unique kind of chef, the sort who steps aside to let the produce speak for itself. Rather than trying to create the next most fabulous thing out of the same old ingredients, he celebrates the fact that the year rolls round, bringing the same treasured treats and gluts. His food and photographs take you to a place where you remember how it is to eat the first asparagus of spring, knowing that the frosts are behind you and trees coming into leaf. He takes you outside to eat with your fingers, cooking something over a casually assembled fire, cheeks rosy from the heat.